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Have you ever had an aluminum repair or 'thing" you wanted to make, but thought you had to use a TIG welder, which you don't have, and end up taking it to someone who has?
Then try this product; HTS2000


Other products (rods) that do a similar job are Durafix and Alladdin 3 in 1. Shop around with the products to get the best price. I've heard of prices from $5 to $60 per pound for very similar products

All of these rods are aluminum brazing rods and they are made basically from aluminum and zinc
You can use propane, oxy/propane, oxy/ acet. The smaller and thinner the pieces, the better it is to stay away from the O/A and use the mapp (preferred) or propane unless you have the correct size tips as the O/A can get to the melt temp really quickly. Use a very fine tip (00 or 0) when working with 1/8" or thinner material with O/A.

If you can braze then you can use this product.

Don't use this product on high temperature items. Even though it says you can do cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds, I wouldn't. Use a TIG instead.

And then of course there is stainless steel brazing rod, of which there are a few varieties. Most all contain silver as one of the alloys. You can do the search to find out what's out there.

These items lend themselves to emergency repairs on a boat, or a DIY project that doesn't need the expense of a TIG welder. You would have to make a decision as to whether a TIG is required or brazing will do. Keep in mind that if the brazing doesn't work, and you have to use TIG, all the brazing work will need to be ground out, before you can use the TIG. 

My intention for my next cruising season, is to carry a propane torch that will run off the BBQ gas tank, and some of these rods for emergency repair. Any comments?

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An article found in the November 1923 issue of Popular Mechanics (p.813) has a brief writeup on the repair of split paddle.

The article mentions that if the crack doesn't extend to far into the blade, then the split can be securely stitched with copper or brass wire. After punching or drilling staggered holes 1/4 inch from the crack and 1/2 inch apart, the blade is tightly bound or clamped so the crack is tightly closed. The wire is worked through the holes beginning at the top of the split and through the alternating holes to the tip and then worked back up through the same holes. The loose ends at the top of the split are twisted tightly and then fastened to the blade with a tack or screw. It claims an oar had been repaired in this manner and still used for another season.

In any event, might be a useful repair technique in the field if a suitable bushpaddle cannot be carved. Some wire, an awl, makeshift clamp (or string binding), and a tack might be carried in a repair kit anyway.

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