Monday, 6 March 2017

Teak Grate Cutting Jig


Mark Corke has a teak grate project in hand and shows us how to get perfectly spaced rebates on his teak project. Mark explains first of all, how he came to be making a teak grate. You can read his initial blog here, but essentially he says...." The alterations also meant that I had to install a couple of water tight hatches in the cockpit sole and although they seem robust enough I am a little nervous about walking on them. I don't think that they would break but somehow the cockpit just does not look finished. So I have spent a long time agonizing over what I should do and I have decided to go down the route of the classic teak grating. .....".
Mark, in part two goes on to explain.....
As you can see I made a jig from a couple of sections of scrap three quarters inch plywood into which is cut a slot exactly the same width as the notch that I required in the grating
Off set to one side is another section of wood glued and pinned in position which slots onto the groove already cut and thus giving the current spacing.





To prevent break out, it is essential to back up the cut on both sides. One side is supported by a back fence screwed and glued to the template and the front is supported by another scrap of wood which is simply held in place as the strip is cut. Finger pressure is sufficient but obviously keep your hands away from the cutter. In this shot, I am holding the bearing cutter to illustrate how the whole system works. Of course normally the cutter would be held in an inverted router on a table.
Use a sharp carbide tipped cutter; teak is very abrasive and will dull a HSS cutter in no time at all.












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